Snow, gravel and two cities at opposite ends of the Netherlands

In the heart of winter, Linda and Dirk cycle the Pieterpad: from Pieterburen to the Sint-Pietersberg. Not in five days, as often suggested, but in eight. With time for detours, for Groningen and Maastricht, and snow under the tyres during the first stages. The gravel version of the Pieterpad turns out to be accessible, varied and surprisingly beautiful — even (or especially) in winter.

Linda & Dirk
 Santos Adventure Lite

The Pieterpad Divide

The Pieterpad is the most famous long-distance hiking trail in the Netherlands. It runs from north to south, from Pieterburen in the province of Groningen to the Sint-Pietersberg near Maastricht in Limburg. The original trail was created between 1978 and 1983 by two Dutch women, inspired by a hike in Germany’s Black Forest.

In 1998 a cycling version of the Pieterpad was introduced, and in 2024 Cobbles Cycling and The Gravelracer created a gravel version. We bought the GPX track for €9 via their websites. The gravel route largely follows the existing cycling Pieterpad and goes off-road whenever the makers found a worthwhile unpaved alternative.

The route is often suggested as a five-day ride and Komoot labels it an “Expert gravel ride”. We rode it in eight days, not because it’s technically difficult, but because we wanted to spend an afternoon in both Groningen and Maastricht, and because we had heavy snow during the first two days. Winter days are short, too. In summer, we think this makes for a relaxed six- to seven-day adventure.

Getting to the start in Pieterburen

After looking at the options to reach Pieterburen, the easiest solution for us was taking the train from Antwerp to Winsum, followed by a 15 km ride to Pieterburen. We travelled on a Sunday to avoid peak restrictions for taking bikes on Dutch trains.

We left at 7:42 a.m. and arrived in Winsum five hours later. Three train changes, but everything went smoothly. The holiday mood starts right away: Winsum is a charming village that was named the most beautiful village in the Netherlands by the ANWB a few years ago.

After a short stop for hot chocolate, we continue cycling towards Pieterburen. Because we’ll pass through Winsum again the next day, we deliberately choose an alternative route using the Dutch “bike node” network. The same concept also exists for hikers, and it works in both the Netherlands and Belgium.

Pieterburen – Groningen

Normally we never book accommodation in advance, but today we make an exception. The official Pieterpad avoids Groningen, yet we’ve never visited the city, so we decide to spend the afternoon there. With 35 km on day one, it’s also a good way to warm up the legs.

In Groningen we visit the Forum — library and rooftop terrace included. The tourist office is located in the ground-floor shop, where we buy a city walking route for €1.50. Highly recommended.

For this trip we try to stay as much as possible with “Vrienden op de Fiets” (Friends on the Bicycle). Membership costs €10 per calendar year; a stay is €25 per person including breakfast. Our host in Groningen has an amazing 1970s interior.

Groningen – Schoonoord

The forecast mentions light rain. Wrong — and what a pleasant surprise. After rejoining the route near Hoornsemeer, we immediately realise it’s hard to pick up the pace: too many beautiful moments to simply ride past.

By lunch in Zuid-Laren (12:15 p.m.), we’ve only cycled 24 km. Despite the slow start, we still manage around 75 km and reach our Friends-on-the-Bicycle host in Schoonoord.

Schoonoord – Hardenberg

The snowfall is much heavier today. Up to 20 cm is forecast, but the wind pushes the clouds north and by 11:00 a.m. the sky clears. We wait and leave around that time.

Our host Charles, a former travel agent, tells us about the many dolmens in this region. One lies just south of the route. Following his tip, we take the main road — and even get passed by a snowplough clearing the cycle path. That helps a lot.

At the dolmen site a spontaneous snowball fight breaks out. Back on the route we try forest tracks, but mud pools hidden under snow make it too risky. We switch back to paved cycle paths to keep our feet dry.

Hardenberg – Lochem

What a difference: no snow and plenty of sunshine. After two winter days, it feels almost luxurious. Our overnight stay in Hardenberg is exceptionally comfortable: a converted garden house with underfloor heating, a full kitchen and a breakfast basket.

Fallen trees are rarely an issue; road blocks are more difficult — you never know how long they’ll last. Usually we solve it by improvising. Today, for the first time, we truly feel confident riding gravel again. From one nature reserve to the next, we continue until we book a hotel in Lochem, 6 km off the route. Total: 85 km.

Lochem – Millingen aan de Rijn

After breakfast at a bakery, we cycle 6 km along the canal back to the route. It’s Valentine’s Day, and we pass an impressive number of castles, coincidence?

In Elten (Germany) we stop for Kuchen. Then we plan to take the ferry, but in winter it only runs until 5:00 p.m. It’s 4:55 p.m. Too late. We have to detour via Emmerich: 30 km extra. We make it — just. Quick shower, and exactly on time for our Valentine’s dinner. Relief.

Millingen aan de Rijn – Swolgen

From Millingen it’s about 200 km to the Sint-Pietersberg — perfect to divide over three days. Our host Toos is 90. She says: “Once you stop moving, you grow old.” We’re welcomed with soup and apple pie. What a woman.

Swolgen – Sittard

A beautiful day with sunshine and patches of ice in the shade. We cycle 92 km to Sittard and treat ourselves to comfort: a four-star hotel.

Sittard – Maastricht

On the last day we take it easy. We enjoy a leisurely hotel breakfast and only get on the bike around 11:00 a.m. We know the final kilometres will go uphill, but for now the landscape stays surprisingly flat.

Then Linda’s weakness appears again. Whenever we pass a flock of sheep, the camera comes out. Some things never change.

Our last stop before the finish is Valkenburg. When cycling, we never feel guilty about a few extra calories — especially not in the form of pastries. We enjoy a homemade pear tart, so good it’s almost a shame to get back on the bike.

The official end of the Pieterpad is at the top of the Sint-Pietersberg. At around 100 metres, it’s not a long climb, but it’s a symbolic one. The hill lies mostly in the Netherlands with a small part in Belgium, and from the top we look out over the quarry. This is the end. Done.

Back home

To get home, we only have to cycle another 25 km to Linda’s daughter’s place. That’s where the car is parked, and from there we drive back.

A beautiful ending to a winter gravel journey through the Netherlands.